Alpha Hoodie with Ripstop by the Roll

Alpha Direct Hoodie *Ripstop by the Roll

 *Fabric, pattern and most notions are from Ripstop by the Roll.  The first 20 people can use the discount code Heather10% .

Fabric: Polartec® Alpha® Direct with Wool 4048 2 yds (58”)

Pattern: LearnMYOG Alpha Hoodie Pattern

Notions: 3.4 oz Pocket Mesh - 0.5 yds

Mini Cordlock - 1 

Shock cord, Neon  1/16”  - 30 inches

Foldover elastic - 3 yds

Wicking knit - 8”  (30 “)

Invisible zippers  (2 x 12” or longer - just cut off the excess)

The Fabric

I  was pretty excited to have a chance to sew up Polartec® Alpha® Direct with Wool 4048.  I love using the regular Alpha Direct, so the addition of wool sounded rather amazing. 

Alpha Direct can be worn directly against the skin or other fabric layers. This increases the breathability, reduces the overall garment weight, and allows for greater creative styling. This variant is made with wool to quickly wick moisture (i.e. sweat) away from you even faster.

Alpha Direct is super simple to sew with and I treat it the same way I treat most fleece and activewear knits.  I threw it in the washing machine and then the dryer (why, yes I did because it is guaranteed that someone in my household will accidentally toss it in there at some point).

 The Pattern

I decided to give the LearnMYOG Alpha Hoodie a whirl.  I used the digital version so that I could use the large format AO with my projector.  The pattern projected easily though it does not have individual layers available for each size, it was simple enough to pick out the correct pattern line when cutting/tracing.  I went with a size medium based on my measurements and it turned out great.  Next time I may add in more size grading to give it a curvier fit.

The Pocket Hack

Every time I sew a hoodie that doesn’t have pockets, I end up later regretting it. Every. Single. Time.  I knew that I wanted to keep the sweater as lightweight as possible, but I really needed a functional pocket (I have cold hands, always.) Using mesh keeps the bulk and the weight down in the final product. 

Invisible zippers keep the weight down and also are inconspicuous and are not bulky when layering. Pockets are never that difficult to add and you can never have enough.

Step 1: Trace the front pattern piece and determine where you want to add the zippers.  I chose to create the seams 3 inches in from each side.  When cutting out the pattern pieces, you need to remember to add seam allowances. Using chalk to draw them in helps ensure I don’t forget to add them when cutting - a lesson learned the hard way.

Step 2: Insert the invisible zippers into each seam.  I made mine about 8 inches long, but the best way to determine this is to hold the pattern piece up to yourself and measure how large you want to the pocket opening to be.  When installing invisible zippers, I HIGHLY recommend using a good invisible zipper foot. Also, never, ever skimp on the double-sided wash-away tape.  Seriously.  This stuff is absolutely life-changing, especially when installing zippers in knits.

Step 3: Cut your mesh to cover the pocket area and add an extra ⅜ inch at the top for a seam allowance at the top of the pocket.  I sewed it on upside down so that the edge of the mesh would be hidden inside the pocket.

Step 4: Fold the mesh back down over the pocket area and baste along the sides and the bottom.  That’s it.  Your pocket is done (See? Totally worth it!)

Hood Grommets

Buttonholes and knits can always be a bit challenging.  I decided to add a bit of pizzazz and extra reinforcement by using a tiny scrap of vinyl - any non-fraying fabric will work.  I then installed two small grommets and used those for the shock cord.  A mini cord lock makes it adjustable and I dug through some old crafting supplies and found a coordinating perler bead which works perfectly due to its small size and unobtrusiveness.  It fits the 1/16” shock cord perfectly!

Final Verdict

The cozy interior of the Alpha Direct, the sleek outer of the wool and the easy fit of this pattern make this hoodie a winner.  An added bonus is that even with the addition of the mesh pocket, it still squishes into a Ziploc bag with plenty of room to spare!  There will be more of these in my future with some other fun colour combinations!